Anchor Maintenance: Logan Canyon - A Successful Pilot Project

During the week of June 17th, the anchor crew undertook its first-ever work week in the Logan Ranger District within the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. This pilot project in Logan Canyon aimed to address the concerns of aging anchors while preserving the sensitive resources within the canyon. This project was months in the making and required partnership between the SLCA, Northern Utah Climbers Alliance (NUCA), USFS, and local Logan climbers.

The work week focused on two main zones: Mullein Land and Fucoidal Quartzite, with Mullein Land being the primary focus. We inspected all 11 sport routes at Mullein Land, and all but three routes underwent full bolt replacement. Most of the classic routes, such as Serotonin (5.8) and Old Glory (5.9), had aging washer-stacked anchors and rusty lead bolts. These routes were re-equipped with FIXE 316 stainless steel 10mm x 90mm glue-in bolts, stainless steel chain, quick links, and lower-offs. As climbing continues to gain popularity, clip-in lower-offs, such as “Mussy Hooks” or steel carabiners, are becoming more common. Proper training and care are needed when using these lower-offs. For more information, head over to our PSA about this type of anchor setup.

Towards the end of the work week, we received approval from the USFS to work at one of Logan’s most popular crags: Fucoidal Quartzite. During our time there, we updated anchors for Tiny Toons (5.5), Tennis Ball (5.8) Illusion Extension (5.11a) and Super Cannon Ball (5.10b/c). The open-shut anchor for Super Cannon Ball/Tooth and Nail gave one of the techs a scare when they were able to pull the entire 1/2’’ 5-piece sleeve out by hand after slightly loosening the bolt. This is a prime example of the importance of anchor maintenance and the unknown dangers that can lurk beneath the rock.

During our time in Logan, our Executive Director, the Logan USFS District Ranger, and the USFS Special Use Permit Administrator visited the site to discuss the state of climbing and route development in Logan Canyon. They also checked out the anchors program in action and discussed possible future projects. These on-site, in-person visits are extremely productive for all parties to continue their partnerships in current and future activities.

Thanks to the local Logan climbers for submitting anchor maintenance observations and to our partners at the USFS for coming out for a site visit to see the work in action.

The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance is committed to being the boots on the ground and to engage as an advocate to protect outdoor climbing access and as a steward to maintain sustainable climbing resources in the Wasatch and surrounding regions.

Donations to the SLCA go a long way to ensure this program continues. Thank you for your support.