Albion Basin Anchor Maintenance Recap

Albion Basin Anchor Maintenance Recap

Albion Basin is an urban escape from the sweltering heat of the salt lake valley. Up high in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Albion Basin is home to some quality quartzite climbing with a spectacular setting of mountains and wildflowers. Relatively new, Albion Basin is home to multiple walls like the Cecret Lake walls, Stash Wall and a small limestone band near the campground: Cosmic Web.

Over the course of two weeks, the Anchor Maintenance Crew visited most of the crags in Albion Basin. Generally speaking, this area is relatively new: 20-30 years old. Most of the original hardware was looking good. Unfortunately a large amount of bolts were noted to be of mixed metals: stainless steel bolts with plated steel bolt hangers. Eventually, these metals will start to corrode due to their different electrical charges. Though safe, a major bolt replacement effort will eventually need to take place for a sustainable safe future for climbing in Albion Basin.

In total, the crew ended up maintaining 295 and replacing 21 bolts with a mix of stainless steel glue and 5 piece expansion bolts. Many of the top anchor chain and quick links were also replaced with stainless steel hardware. 

If you're ever looking for a low committing alpine sport crag, check out Albion basin and all the beauty it has to offer!

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents.  We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.

Julia Geisler