Big Cottonwood Canyon Anchor Maintenance Recap 2022

Big Cottonwood Canyon Anchor Maintenance Recap

05/16/2022 - 05/20/2022

During the spring of 2022, the Anchor Maintenance Crew visited the unique sport crag of Choss Garden in Big Cottonwood Canyon.  Despite the name, this West Facing crag is some to some high quality sport climbing on a gently overhanging wall.  This area is known for its technical climbing and can be climbed all year long, condition dependent.  This area is home to approximately 15 routes, including one huge griddle traverse of the whole crag.  

The crew spent a total of 4 days at Choss Garden.  Most, if not all of the anchors were replaced due to the unsustainable “Washer Stacks” that are prevalent throughout the Wasatch.  Hole for Hole replacement was the priority.  Some routes saw new holes due to fractured rock or bolt breaking upon removal due to rust.  In addition to new anchors and lead bolts, some additional belay bolts were added due to the sloping ramp at the base.  

Here at the SLCA, we remove old, unsustainable textile fixed draws. The reasons include: Bleaching of the nylon dog bone, worn out carabiners and the chewing of quicklinks against hangers.  When coming across fixed draws, our technicians are amazed that this equipment is still being used.  It is up to the climbing community to inspect and routinely replace this equipment.  Leaving a $5 carabiner is a no brainer compared to injury or death due to a cut rope on a sharp carabiner.  

Choss Garden total:

Rebolted: 49

Maintained:   44

After Choss Garden, two technicians went to the Dark Star Gully in the Storm Mountain area of Big Cottonwood Canyon.  Two routes, identified by community members though our observation form, were worked on: The Wraith and Karmic Whiplash.  Both routes had some extremely rusty bolts.  Both routes were modernized with ClimbTech glue in bolts.  This is an example of how your observations help guide the effort to keep Wasatch climbing safe.  Thank you to those who have submitted observations in the past! 

Dark Star Gully total:

Rebolted: 17

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents.  We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.