Big Cottonwood Anchor Maintenance Recap

Big Cottonwood Canyon

09/26/2022 - 10/1/2022

Recap by Anchor Maintenance Coordinator, Andrew Brodhead

The last week in September saw some major upgrades to some of BCC’s hardest 5.13’s on JHCOB wall, also known as Whiplash wall. The crew replaced all of the lead and anchor bolts on Abydos, Osiris and Whiplash. All routes were hole for hole with Fixe stainless steel glue ins. This original hardware was heavily corroded and needed a modern upgrade . This area is now safe for a future project thanks to the anchor maintenance crew.

After the whiplash wall, the crew ventured over to storm mountain for some anchor updates on Encore (pitch 1 and 2). Equalizing and updating this hardware, the crew replaced the bolts on a 5.12 called Padded Cell. This route was in such disrepair, one of the bolts was removed with only a pair of pliers. Hopefully these forgotten classics will now see more traffic with a fresh upgrade.

As the peak climbing season approaches us here in the Wasatch, please keep an eye out for unsafe bolts, worn out chain or bad fixed equipment. If you notice something, please report an observation on the SLCA’s webpage here. Without community input, it’s hard for the SLCA to maintain the routes you want maintained, Regardless of the grade. And please donate to keep this anchor maintenance effort going here.

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents.  We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.