help re-bolt stiffler’s mom in little cottonwood canyon
Rebolting HISTORY
The SLCA has been actively doing bolt stewardship in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC) since we were founded in 2002. From what we have been able to record, we have maintained over 220 routes in LCC over the years, if not more, with routes dating back to the early 1960’s. Over the years, the SLCA rebolted many of the long classics in the canyon. Rebolting longer, multi-pitch routes in LCC is labor intensive and requires a lot of time and preparation.
Route History
During the winter of 2003, Robbie Colbert and Tyler Phillips skied under what is now known as “One Time At Band Camp” (OTABC). Enamored by its features, Tyler returned the following summer to establish OTABC. While working on the route, Tyler looked up the wall and wondered if it was possible to continue higher. He and Robbie spent the summer cleaning, removing brush, and removing five feet of dirt to create the ledge atop pitch 3. While they were establishing this pitch, Bill Ohran came by to check on their progress. Tyler dropped his rope for Bill to try, but Bill, preferring a top rope over leading, eventually climbed up to rescue Tyler, who was now ropeless. Looking up at the dense jungle above, Bill skeptically asked, "You guys are going to keep going, eh?" Pitch 6 proved difficult, and after initially attempting a direct line, Robbie left to fight fires. Tyler then recruited Luke Douglas to help with the final pitches. Even after completing the route, it took another two weeks of cleaning before the team was satisfied.
OUR GOAL
Upon requests from the climbing community, captured largely from our Anchor Observation Form, rust and mixed metals, the SLCA will be taking on the task of rebolting the modern classic: Stiffler’s Mom 5.11 (Trad, 1300 ft (394 m), 12 pitches, Grade III), including some of it’s variations, this September, 2024. This route was established in the traditional style, from the ground up. It has become a modern classic due to its position, rock quality, and the variety of climbing styles it offers: crack, slab, roofs, and jugs. Stiffler's is a great outing in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The route lies about 300 yards east of Pentapitch and about 75 yards west of Nanooks of the North.
Our professional anchor crew will work with the first ascensionists (Tyler Phillips, Robbie Colbert, Luke Douglas 2004) to update this classic with long lasting and sustainable hardware. But, we can’t do it without your support! So if you climb Stiffler’s Mom, or want to in the future, or maybe did in your past, please contribute and donate towards the effort.
When
The SLCA Anchor Crew will be rebolting this route from September 23rd to September 27th. Please avoid climbing it during this time, as some lead bolts, anchors, or other fixed gear may be missing or unsafe. A few days of avoidance for a lifetime of quality fixed anchors—it's a worthwhile trade-off!
THE OUTCOME
Professionally installed stainless steel glue in bolts
If bolts are relocated, original holes are patched
Pitch 5 crux bolts relocated for easier clipping
Number one priority: workers safety!
Work directly with first ascensionists for input
Sustainable steel rappel stations installed
Meticulous documentation
Climb with no fear of bad bolts
The BEST DARN MULTI-PITCH IN UTAH
