Anchor Maintenance Program - 2024 End of Year Recap 

The 2024 Anchor Maintenance Season was another successful year filled with new highlights for the program. Over the seven-month season (April–October), the crew maintained over 900 fixed anchors, worked on more than 155 routes across 20 crags, and logged over 1,700 field hours. In addition to the regular maintenance schedule, the SLCA expanded its expertise to assist with projects in other regions across the state.

Regional Work Highlights

Throughout the season, the crew focused on the usual canyons: Little Cottonwood, Big Cottonwood, American Fork, Maple, and the Uinta Mountains. New for 2024, the team also piloted projects in Logan Canyon and Rock Canyon within the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest. These pilot programs showed promising results and are expected to continue into the 2025 season.

Fixed Anchor Maintenance by Area

Big Cottonwood Canyon

  • Storm Mountain / Challenge Buttress: 106 anchors

Rock Canyon

  • Tinker Toys / The Kitchen / Appendage: 46 anchors

Little Cottonwood Canyon

  • The Waterfront / Coalpit Buttress: 97 anchors

Logan Canyon

  • Mullein Land / Fucoidal Quartzite: 133 anchors

Maple Canyon

  • Cragganmore / Shady Lane: 175 anchors

American Fork Canyon

  • The Watchtower / Juniper Wall / Black Magic Cave / Unknown Pleasures: 270 anchors

Uinta Mountains

  • Scout Lake: 48 anchors

Expanding Statewide Initiatives

In addition to work in the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache and Manti-La Sal National Forests, the SLCA partnered with the Access Fund to pilot an anchor maintenance program at the world-famous Indian Creek, UT. Known for its parallel crack climbing, Indian Creek offered a unique opportunity to extend SLCA’s expertise. Over five days at the Second Meat Wall, the team worked on 30 routes, replacing 60 fixed anchors.

Community Engagement and Education

This spring, the SLCA introduced two exciting new initiatives:

  1. Utah New Router Symposium (March 23)
    SLCA hosted its first-ever Utah New Router Symposium, bringing together over 80 climbers, route developers, rebolters, and community members. The event fostered discussions about the past, present, and future of new route development, covering best practices, safety, and climbing policies. This open dialogue was a milestone in building community and fostering collaboration.

  2. Mentorship with Dinoland Adventure Project (Vernal, UT)
    SLCA provided professional mentorship to the newly-formed Dinoland Adventure Project. This two-day clinic focused on critical topics, including working at height, two-rope systems, anchor installation, route development, and worker safety.

Looking Ahead to 2025

As we move into 2025, we look forward to new and unique opportunities for SLCA. With climbing policies evolving at the federal level, it’s crucial for SLCA to maintain strong relationships with land managers, both federal, state and private. By prioritizing professionalism, safety, and quality control, the anchors program will continue to set the standard for sustainable climbing practices.

From Andrew Brodhead, Anchor Maintenance Field Coordinator

 
Julia Geisler