Anchor Maintenance: The Waterfront in LCC

The Waterfront: Little Cottonwood Canyon

April 23-24, 2024

Between storms during this rainy spring, the Anchor Maintenance Crew had its first work week of 2024. Though cut short due to the rain, we managed to get off to a strong start. After receiving some anchor observations from last fall, we directed our attention to The Waterfront at the Gate Buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Routes like Just Hanging Out (5.8) and Beam Me Up Scotty (5.12 R) were of high interest, as well as the rappel station from the second tier. While one crew focused on the upper tier, a second crew worked on the anchors for Disco Duck (5.10a), Disco Chicken (5.11b/c R), Disco Captain (5.12), Baptism of Fire (5.7), and Comfort Zone (5.9).

One significant aspect of the Anchor Maintenance Program is inspecting and maintaining existing bolts. In places like Little Cottonwood Canyon, hangers may become misaligned or loose due to multiple factors, such as traversing terrain or being under-torqued. Routes like Losing My Religion (5.7) and Beam Me Up Scotty (which had been replaced by an unknown party) required this level of maintenance. Replacement isn't necessary if there are no signs of immediate action.

Over the two-day period, we were able to:

Bolts replaced: 13

Bolts maintained: 34


Julia Geisler