Mayor Jenny Wilson's Alpenbock Legacy

The following tribute was written by Mayor Jenny Wilson. We wanted to share this with the community as we are sure that many of you have similar stories of your love of Little Cottonwood Canyon climbing. If you would like to share your stories with the community, please email communications@saltlakeclimbers.org and contribute to the protection of Wasatch climbing.

August, 2023.

Mayor Jenny Wilson's Alpenbock Legacy

Many members of the “Alpenbock Climbing Club,” a group of young local climbers who charted climbing routes in the Wasatch in the 50s and 60s, have been a part of my life. They have influenced my deep connection to the Wasatch Range. My dad, Ted Wilson, is one of them.

Life, like the now named “Alpenbock Loop,” is a circle. In 1961, my dad, became the first person to climb the slick, vertical faces along the trail lining the Loop, unknowingly sparking a climbing revolution in Little Cottonwood Canyon.

Before his ascent, climbing the granite faces of what he later called Chicken Head Holiday in LCC was uncharted territory - the faces were too steep, and the granite too slick, making the assents uninviting for many climbers. But dad, loved a challenge and he conquered the faces that many thought were not worth climbing, paving the way for a new era in the canyon.

Fast forward 60 years, and the impact of that historic climb is awe-inspiring. Today, there are more than 1600 routes along the Alpenbock Loop, drawing climbers from around the globe to test their skills against some of the most inspiring and challenging climbs on earth.

As a founding member of the storied Alpenbock Climbing Club, my dad's vision and dedication have left an indelible mark on the climbing community. The club preserved the rich history of climbing in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Their meticulously kept notes in the annual notebook have become an invaluable resource, providing crucial information about climbs and access points that might otherwise have been lost to time.

Now passionate climbers and advocates are leading an effort to have the Alpenbock Loop added to the National Register of Historic Places. This designation would not only honor the legacy of the climbers who came before us but also offer an extra layer of protection against potential threats to the canyon, such as the proposed Gondola championed by The Utah Department of Transportation.

For me, climbing with my dad has always been more than just a sport; it's a deeply personal connection to him, others in my family, and the rugged beauty of Utah's granite surfaces and rocky terrain (and Wyoming as well!). The memories we shared on mountains and cliffs have shaped who I am today, and I can't help but be filled with a sense of responsibility to preserve the climbs that have meant so much over the years.

I invite you all to join us in the Alpenbock legacy and support our mission to protect Little Cottonwood Canyon's climbs for generations to come. Let's ensure that future climbers can experience the same awe and wonder that my dad felt on that historic day in 1961.Together, we can write the next chapter in the climbing revolution he and his Alpenbock buddies ignited so many years ago.