Uinta’s Moosehorn Anchor Maintenance Recap

Uinta’s Moosehorn Anchor Maintenance Recap

08/16/2022 - 08/18/2022

Escaping the heat of the lower canyons, the Anchor Maintenance crew ventured up into the Uinta’s this August with the goal to remove and replace the anchors up at the Moosehorn Area. Most of the existing anchors were the big Metolious Rappel hangers. Though a good idea at the time, they are not sustainable for long term use and tend to twist the climbers rope. Replacing these anchors with a more modular, sustainable equipment provides a more convenient form of future anchor maintenance by all climbers.

The crew visited Moore Wall, Lower More Wall, Wall of Mirrors, Pisco Wall and the Lowe Wall. The majority of the lead bolts on these walls were in great condition. Like Albion Basin, most bolts consisted of mixed metals: plated steel bolts with stainless steel hangers. These mixed metals will slowly interact with one another due to a different electrical charge. Like most mixed metal bolt set ups, these bolts will start to corrode over time.

Most anchors were upgraded with stainless steel Fixe glue-in bolts, stainless steel chain and quicklinks. Others were replaced with 5-piece stainless steel bolts.

Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents.  We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.