LCC Anchor Maintenance Recap April 25th-28th, 2022
Little Cottonwood Canyon is a world class climbing destination with a unique history. As climbing gains popularity, areas like Green Adjective Gully are seeing more ascents of even the most obscure routes. These routes still contain original hardware, some 30+ years old. This hardwear is now outdated, rusty and dangerous to fall on and even to weight with one's body. Our focus in LCC this year is to search out these original lines and upgrade them with long lasting stainless steel hardware. Attention to workers safety and quality of work is paramount. By doing so, these routes will have a second life and hopefully see more traffic and safer ascents.
On April 25th, 2022 the SLCA’s Anchor Replacement Crew started off the season with a few days of recon and anchor maintenance in Little Cottonwood Canyon. On the first day, the crew established ropes and set out to replace two routes in the Green Adjective Gully: Surprise Beginning and Surprise Ending. Both routes, established in the 80’s, still contained its original hardware or button head and SMC hangers. The crew replaced all bolts, hole for hole, with long term stainless steel ClimbTech Wave glue-in bolts. This attention to detail maintains the beauty of these historic climbs.
On later days, the crew changed gears and moved over to the Crescent Crack area in Little Cottonwood Canyon. After their initial recon, the crew zoned in on a few routes for bolt maintenance and replacement. Routes maintained in the Crescent Crack area included: Spanish Fly, Mexican Crack, Multiplicity, and Who’s on First. All bolts were replaced with stainless steel ClimbTech Wave glue-in bolts, hole for hole.
If you're looking to get involved, you're in luck! There are two ways one can help out the effort of route maintenance. While out climbing, bring an adjustable crescent wrench and a few stainless steel quick links. Most of our work entails re-torquing “spinners” or loose nuts on stud bolts. If you come across this, simply grab your crescent and tighten it a little. Don't go too hard, if you're straining or grunting, you've gone way too far. Second, climb routes with bolt quality in mind and fill out the SLCA’s anchor observation form. The more observations we have, the better guided our efforts are. And don’t forget to please donate to the SLCA or attend our upcoming June 2nd 20th Anniversary Celebration! Thanks to our sponsors and land agency partners at the Uinta Wasatch Cache National Forest for supporting this work to maintain shared public resources.
Total bolts maintained: 14
Total bolts replaced: 16
Total number of routes maintained: 6
Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents. We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.