Pipe Dream 2020 Summary Report
Pipe Dream 2020 Summary Report
November 29, 2020
On November 19 the SLCA’s anchor replacement crew pulled down the last of our rappel ropes in Maple Canyon’s Pipe Dream cave, wrapping up twelve days of field work and the replacement (or maintenance) of almost 250 climbing anchors in one of central Utah’s best known steep sport climbing venues.
This was an ambitious project, and the last chapter in the SLCA’s 2020 professional (paid) anchor replacement pilot program. As with the SLCA trails program, this project proposes what and exactly how a paid anchor maintenance crew would work, and manage climbing venues as the shared community recreation resources they have become- ideally funded with local, state and federal public recreation resources.
This summer, we developed training materials and a thorough Operating Plan that qualifies worker fall protection systems and establishes quality assurance processes on all installed anchors. This fall, a pilot crew performed several climbing anchor maintenance projects in Little Cottonwood Canyon, under formal agreement with the Church of Latter-day Saints, Snowbird Resort, and Alta Ski Area. With this Pipe Dream project, we’ve also gained the support of the Manti La Sal National Forest Service, and hopefully demonstrated a resource management model we can learn from and possibly replicate at other climbing areas across the country.
Why did the SLCA choose the Pipe Dream as a site to replace the fixed anchors?
This was a rare ‘win-win’ in 2020: An obvious need, community interest, generous supporters, technical capabilities, qualified and motivated workers, and the land manager’s support- all of it came together, almost at the last minute.
The Pipe Dream has many climbs that are in the harder ratings- and is an amazing venue. Climbers come from all over the world to try these routes, and we should and can respect and maintain them as such.
It's steep climbing; all of the anchors (and the fixed hardware) get loaded by falling climbers, all of the time. This constant loading of fixed anchors occurs more frequently here than on less overhanging and technically challenging terrain. A few visibly unreliable bolts were already observed, and the conglomerate rock matrix with embedded cobbles is a notoriously variable structure. Climbers who frequent the Pipe Dream had increasing concerns about the reliability of the anchors in the face of intensive use, and the condition of the randomly placed fixed hardware. Along those lines- some very active and generous local climbers initially approached the SLCA about a challenge donation that eventually inspired and seeded additional support for a full replacement effort.
The Forest Service in Maple Canyon also sees the intensity of use there, and was supportive of a (qualified) professional replacement project- which is a big step in developing this relationship with the land agency to address the future of fixed anchor maintenance.
What did we find?
We found bolts and holes of all types, and all conditions and ages. What we noticed more than anything was the tremendous variability of both anchors and fixed hardware over the whole crag. There were older, rusted and less reliable bolts, but with beautiful cable permadraws. (Note: permadraws that were in good condition will be re-installed in the same locations by volunteer climbers in the spring of 2021). There were also (non-stainless but otherwise intact) bolts, but equipped with very worn, deformed, unscrewed and unreliable screw-links, carabiners and slings. Now with a consistent service life for the whole crag’s anchors, we intend at least a 50 + year lifespan for these new stainless steel bolts, hopefully longer. The climbing community can help monitor these anchors at the SLCA’s anchor observation form here: https://forms.gle/AGpyWfgbdpb3xUwF7
Why use adhesive anchors?
The SLCA primarily installs either ½” stainless steel sleeve bolts, or ½” stainless steel adhesive anchors, depending on the application. In Maple Canyon, the variable quality of the rock matrix and embedded quartzite cobbles is a tricky medium, and it takes judgement (and lots of hammering) to find good rock structure in the matrix, or a well-embedded cobble. Mechanical bolts (sleeve or stud/wedge) can be used immediately and make sense when establishing a new route on lead. However, difficult to access and unmaintained mechanical anchors can also loosen or become ‘spinners’ when repeatedly loaded. Expansion bolts also exert outward force into the rock structure, which can be a concern. In contrast, epoxy adhesive can fill any voids or gaps in the hole and help reinforce the structure around the anchor.
Climb Tech’s Wave bolt is a simple and effective ½ in. diameter x 4 in. long stainless steel adhesive anchor, with a curved, round stock hanger that minimizes wear on the connectors and accepts two large carabiners easily. Climb Tech also sells equipment into the standardized industrial work safety market, and we appreciate a similar level of quality control for our climbing anchors. The two-leg construction makes for a compression fit upon installation- an essential feature on overhanging terrain. The Wave bolts also leave a clean, simple appearance.
Reliable adhesive bolts require proper storing, insulated transport and handling of the epoxy. In warm temps it can cure quite rapidly. An efficient work progression must be planned, or it cures in the mixing tip between holes, requiring a new one for the next one. (We sometimes use a lot of mixing tips...) Colder temps allow us longer working times, but can require an adhesive that is better suited to colder temperatures. This includes pre-conditioning of the cartridges to a warmer temperature (> 50’F) in freezing conditions. We used a large insulated cooler with thermometers for monitoring, and refilled hot water bottles to insulate and precondition the cartridges while in transport, and on site.
When a new cartridge and/or mixing tip is used, we follow the manufacturer’s instructions and apply test samples for monitoring into a plastic bag. We note the cartridge batch, expiration date, the time, surface temperature and cartridge temperature, and then consult the provided tables for the anticipated cure time. As the anchor replacement technician works, we monitor and confirm the proper hardening and curing of the adhesive. In the coldest temps, this may require as long as 24 hours of curing before using the anchors.
A handful of known and confirmed recently installed ½ in. stainless steel sleeve bolts on one route were re-tightened to manufacturer’s specifications and left in place. Several recently replaced adhesive bolts were also inspected and left in place.
Where did we put the replacement anchors?
Given the rock structure and need for sequential work positioning anchors on the relentlessly overhanging terrain, the Pipe Dream was not a ‘hole-for-hole- replacement, but required installing new anchors near the old anchors, or in an improved position. The technician would assess the rock quality, the clipping stances, the movement flow and positions, and get input from the other technicians and sometimes other active community members- on where to locate the new anchor, before drilling and cleaning the new hole.
How did we actually do the work in this overhanging terrain?
We use a mix of climbing equipment for access, and industrial rope ascent/descent equipment for work positioning. This includes adding chest (or dedicated full-body) harnesses, backup rope clamps on secondary lines, work seats, stick clips, adjustable positioning lanyards and industrial rope devices. The proper equipment not only helps mitigate the technical and fall protection hazards, but allows for better work positioning to install quality anchors.
We organize our work processes and teams differently, depending on the terrain and project. On vertical and slab terrain- where ‘hole for hole’ anchor replacement is also a likely priority- the crew often works in teams of 2- side by side, each on their own set of working and backup ropes. One technician handles the task while the other assists. Alternatively they may work in series (for example one person drilling and cleaning, followed closely by a second installing) one slightly above the other. Multi-pitch routes add additional ‘big wall’ complexity for daily access and the hauling and handling of tools and materials.
For the steep sport terrain in the Pipe Dream- we organized more like an arborist crew, teaming up as climbers and belayers to install the work and backup ropes on each route or variation, and then working on each route individually, with tag lines and a ‘ground person’ for assistance, support and direction. The cave is so steep that the most efficient work is often from the bottom up- so each route required four progressions:
Lead aid climb and install the working and backup rope strands through each anchor / fixed draw.
Ascend the working ropes (main + backup), carefully assessing the location of each replacement anchor, drilling and thoroughly cleaning each new hole, and ‘lowering out’ between each bolt.
Ascend the working ropes (main + backup), installing (and documenting) new adhesive bolts in each hole, and ‘lowering out’ between each bolt.
Ascend the working ropes (main + backup), removing and patching the old anchor holes- using rope protection and redundant lanyards for cutting & grinding, collecting (and documenting) the removed hardware, and ‘lowering out’ between each bolt. Extension chains are installed on the anchor if needed.
What about all of the ‘fixed’ and ‘permadraws’?
The central cave is so steep that even removing quickdraws is a physical and tedious challenge, so most of the routes had cable or textile slings, screw-links and carabiners ‘fixed’ by users and left in place on the bolts and top anchors. As noted, many of these - including most of the top anchors- were worn, deformed, or in poor condition. However, many of the newer cable draws were in good condition, and can be reused.
Anchor replacement is limited to the quality assured installation of the climbing anchors only, which can have an indefinite service life once installed correctly. However, because carabiners, slings and connectors are manufactured and sold as individual and personal protective equipment, and are subject to wear, tear and potential misuse by each user, the SLCA did not replace the assortment of fixed hardware that was removed with the previous anchors.
But even with new stainless steel anchors to clip- we don’t want to leave the Pipe Dream climbers hanging! To assist in volunteer replacement efforts- the removed hardware was consolidated on slings and labelled individually by route or variation, bolt number (from ground or junction up), and direction the gate faced. All of the removed hardware was handed over to volunteer climbers who have offered to inspect them, remove and replace any unfit items, and place them as needed on the new anchors. Until next season, individual climbers should be prepared to place draws on these routes as necessary.
For climbers who will place or use fixed hardware to project these routes, this is also a chance to use fixed draws with an intention that matches the quality of the new anchors. Cable draws - like the beautiful CAMP Gym Safe Cable Express- with stainless steel carabiners and CE rated screw-links, or the ClimbTech Cable Draw- will have a healthy service life, and are worth connecting with screw-links and hand tightening with a wrench. Most manufacturer’s don’t intend textile slings for multi-year installation outdoors. (Gyms are different as they are inside, engineered, and privately owned and managed facilities). Since the round stock of Wave Bolts should also be less damaging to regular carabiners, textile draws may be better if used in place only with regular carabiners, allowing users to much more easily replace the textile sling when they become unreliable.
Teamwork makes the dreamwork
I manage these projects as the SLCA’s Anchor Replacement Coordinator. Alex Lemieux and Eric Salmi are the SLCA’s primary pro anchor technicians. Both are long-time local climbers, route developers, and seasonal climbing and ski industry workers. They both signed on at the start of the pilot project, readily absorbing the anchor skills and tools developed by the WARI committee, and training in the use of redundant industrial rope systems. They both approach it as a job, with a strong craftsman work ethic, and are very practiced at it now.
Mike Kaserman - also a long-time local climber, teacher and seasonal climbing instructor, joined us as a new recruit and trained ‘on the job.’ He’s an active climber in the Pipe Dream, and his consulting and liaison with other climbers on specific routes, movement and a few bolt relocations, was invaluable. Hayden Jamieson- also a semi-pro climber, gym coach and member of the WARI committee, lent his practiced experience and assistance to the center cave routes during the pivotal middle week of the project.
By the numbers
12 field work days (~ 9 hrs/day)
451 worker hours
239 stainless steel Wave bolts
1.9 worker hours : bolt
32 DeWalt/Powers adhesive cartridges
25 ½” carbide tipped SDS drill bits
4 Steel grinder discs
What’s next?
With an emerging track record of successful projects, and more accurate estimates on what this work costs, and what it takes, the SLCA can now apply for county, state and federal recreation funding for climbing anchor maintenance and replacement. This also includes agreements with land managers for the proactive management of climbing resources with trained and paid crews. Your ongoing donations also help fund this work and match grant funds.
We’ll also need community input on the condition of anchors and priorities for replacement- like using this Google Form- that can be used to inventory and assign projects. There will always be more, and an observation or even a donation can’t guarantee top priority- but compiling this data will be essential to tasking a crew on the most effective projects.
How to help?
Thanks to everyone who donated or supported this project. One of the efficiencies of the paid pro program, is that financial support or material (logistics) assistance, is actually the best help. We plan and perform work during the off seasons if possible, and generally weekdays- so climbers can support the initiative, but enjoy the crags freely on weekends and holidays.
Many thanks are due to the WARI committee members that pioneered the SLCA’s anchor replacement program, and developed the specific tools and techniques we are using.
Many thanks also to CAMP-USA, which provided us with reliable backup devices; Liberty Mountain- which donated hardware, ropes and rescue equipment; Climb Tech- which provided us with bulk supply of the Wave bolts; and Petzl America’s Technical Institute - which supported us with rope access equipment and technical advice, the Access Fund Anchor Replacement Fund for supporting our effort to professionalize anchor replacement, the Utah Office of Outdoor Recreation, Shop Utah, Recreational Trails Program grants, and many more.
Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity and we encourage anyone who participates to obtain the appropriate education and training in order to minimize accidents. We also encourage participants to consult resources including but not limited to guiding outfitters, SAR, Utah Avalanche Center, ranger stations, and weather reports. Nevertheless and although tragic, accidents can happen even when the participants have the proper training and have consulted authorities on conditions. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Anchors once maintained by the SLCA are not guaranteed to be in the same state or condition as when they were maintained.